继续我们为期60天的新疆大环线之旅,第17天,在喀什市区休整了一晚之后,从深业丽笙酒店出发,走314国道,经由木吉边防公路到达木吉火山口,然后原路返回继续走314国道向塔县方向,晚上宿“遇见慕士塔格公路酒店”,全程332公里,由于限速,所以路上至少耗费6小时以上。
木吉边防公路是今年开始比较火的小众路线,终点是木吉火山口,途中会路过白沙湖北岸、木吉湿地、然后遥望十八罗汉峰,一路雪山连绵、湖光山色、大气磅礴,是帕米尔小环线的精华部分,建议一定要安排至少一天的时间来感受下。
木吉火山口有住宿,不过条件较差,所以我还是多赶路去住了这家野奢酒店,也同样超出了期待值。
![Screenshot_20240718_112136_com.autonavi.minimap.jpg Screenshot_20240718_112136_com.autonavi.minimap.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164847n8l3vppwvhrkp4jw.jpg!m)
去塔县之前一定要办理边防证,不然关卡无法通行,喀什市内有20多个便民点,不过大多都需要排队,可以尽早去办理。
![IMG_20240526_105859_edit_7410971158243.jpg IMG_20240526_105859_edit_7410971158243.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/163926txckkprdxlxhkpjx.jpg!m)
新疆很多路牌就很有意思,大家关心的厕所问题。
![IMG_20240526_124123_edit_7441475859280.jpg IMG_20240526_124123_edit_7441475859280.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/163926ogorh4uzze2eu6gj.jpg!m)
刚离开喀什,海拔就迅速爬升,庞大的山脉极具压迫感。整个帕米尔环线平均海拔在3500米以上,常规景点里最高是红其拉甫国门5100+,所以各位如果有高反还是要根据自己的身体情况来制订行程。
![DSC04431_鍓湰.jpg DSC04431_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164023wccmn3nz35sjyc3u.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240526_132303_edit_7474887200942.jpg IMG_20240526_132303_edit_7474887200942.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/163927j00ii0giw1cbw08i.jpg!m)
常规帕米尔环线是走314过道经由慕士塔格冰川公园直达塔县,途中会经过白沙湖,沿途有几个观景点,不过那边人很多,拍照角度也有很大的局限性,而如果走木吉边防公路的话,则可以先抵达白沙湖北岸,这里地势更高,视野更好,人少景美,我觉得是白沙湖最好的观赏点了。
雪山的压迫感
![DSC04534_鍓湰.jpg DSC04534_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164023ajad5hvyba2qx05b.jpg!m)
帕米尔的雄鹰
![DSC04475_鍓湰.jpg DSC04475_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164023xui7yuozszizfcc7.jpg!m)
![DSC04451_鍓湰.jpg DSC04451_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164023fpoodt8ywozgjowy.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240526153949_0018_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240526153949_0018_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164022nmh4azs9z7g39m2x.jpg!m)
这边也有被迫营业的牦牛
![DSC04521_鍓湰.jpg DSC04521_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164019tij6eys4sski80uj.jpg!m)
![DSC04440_鍓湰.jpg DSC04440_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164023sb8hi8puvpuq5b2v.jpg!m)
![DSC04438_鍓湰.jpg DSC04438_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164023c22wd6pz9wadiysl.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240526153752_0009_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240526153752_0009_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164022vloz1e4efeqkez5s.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240526153617_0002_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240526153617_0002_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164021di8x8jticmfxfifg.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240526153626_0004_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240526153626_0004_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164022hgy1rjfj5g5rnfu1.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240526153733_0006_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240526153733_0006_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164023dj6ihkzov3orffzn.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240526153839_0012_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240526153839_0012_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164022cql5oq6e5i60k8ze.jpg!m)
木吉边防公路不止有白沙湖、火山口和十八罗汉峰,沿途的木吉湿地我认为是新疆最美的湿地没有之一,甚至比同在塔县而且名声在外的塔合曼湿地更美。这里最大的特色是草地上、水中央会遍布大大小小圆球形的草团,在其他湿地是没有见过同款的。
![DSC04805_鍓湰.jpg DSC04805_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164158y5y856jb38zpksat.jpg!m)
![DSC04806_鍓湰.jpg DSC04806_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164157omz8jmmjo6m8tuzm.jpg!m)
![DSC04808_鍓湰.jpg DSC04808_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164158bayan505mnq3a7zn.jpg!m)
![DSC04801_鍓湰.jpg DSC04801_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164158ria9y8jjncmjnvrr.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240526204808_0179_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240526204808_0179_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164158cq4wng99sqanss16.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240526204450_0165_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240526204450_0165_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164157urb88xx3sxxx5non.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240526204308_0161_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240526204308_0161_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164157c6xb6h5z7667i23b.jpg!m)
来木吉火山可不是为了看这几个平平无奇的积水火山口,而是看排成一排的背景板 - 十八罗汉峰,壮观无敌的天际线。
![DJI_20240526191821_0157_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240526191821_0157_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/174916sgif7f9vghgt9dbz.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240526182604_0098_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240526182604_0098_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/174916vub1gfzu99zfg2zr.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240526190714_0132_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240526190714_0132_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/174916dqef5rvkbgkz5aar.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240526183059_0117_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240526183059_0117_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/174916y4cyyx1nnl02l2ue.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240526_181101_edit_7613277953004.jpg IMG_20240526_181101_edit_7613277953004.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/163926co85455va6oa6v58.jpg!m)
这家是塔县唯一的五钻级别酒店,确实有其过人之处,首先位置无敌,且足够野,就在喀什到塔县的必经之路,很适合喀什出发,在木吉边防公路玩一天后,在这里留宿的行程,第二天还能继续就近玩喀拉库勒湖和慕士塔格冰川公园,这两个景点也近在咫尺。
然后就是景观无敌,在酒店房间里甚至就能看到喀拉库勒湖和其背后的公格尔峰(海拔7719米)、公格尔九别峰(海拔7530),而冰川之父慕士塔格(海拔7546)就在视野的右侧,湖光山色尽收眼底,美不胜收。
![DJI_20240527111924_0206_D_edit_131790243099158.jpg DJI_20240527111924_0206_D_edit_131790243099158.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164942qmrno4ma66cjy9nr.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240527112106_0215_D_edit_131804501021552.jpg DJI_20240527112106_0215_D_edit_131804501021552.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164942muz77o7cs7ybofsy.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240527111630_0191_D_edit_131749447585102.jpg DJI_20240527111630_0191_D_edit_131749447585102.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164943wwjthc1bph9qmqb9.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240527111610_0188_D_edit_131736779611146.jpg DJI_20240527111610_0188_D_edit_131736779611146.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164942fzozl7yy7jgrojrf.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240527111908_0202_D_edit_131775251032494.jpg DJI_20240527111908_0202_D_edit_131775251032494.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164942l49s15xp9m59t9t9.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240527112646_0235_D.JPG DJI_20240527112646_0235_D.JPG](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164943lqsfvege226pf9qp.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240527112729_0239_D_edit_131824637419986.jpg DJI_20240527112729_0239_D_edit_131824637419986.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164942dxwaw6877lwfbky7.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240527112751_0241_D_edit_131842266799150.jpg DJI_20240527112751_0241_D_edit_131842266799150.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164942ontrnifbn79yay9d.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240527112820_0243_D(1)_edit_131854856037169.jpg DJI_20240527112820_0243_D(1)_edit_131854856037169.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/164943o1ryd6cm6okfdr96.jpg!m)
![DSC04812_鍓湰.jpg DSC04812_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/165338zie64p6e5ph2jmob.jpg!m)
![DSC04838_鍓湰.jpg DSC04838_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/165338ctnczgwhj9oof8dp.jpg!m)
![DSC04848_鍓湰.jpg DSC04848_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/165338bn3hdiic3kilkhi7.jpg!m)
![DSC04825_鍓湰_鍓湰.jpg DSC04825_鍓湰_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/165338db3g18lzggl6mdkg.jpg!m)
![DSC04817_鍓湰_鍓湰.jpg DSC04817_鍓湰_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/165338ccryqzygej6kyjej.jpg!m)
![DSC04823_鍓湰.jpg DSC04823_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/165338bufhtibjfacmhl89.jpg!m)
如果只是位置和景观优秀,估计这家小体量酒店也难当🐬5钻级别,酒店的客房面积和配置也足够出色,在这个位置实属一等一的了。
房间足够宽敞,配有弥散式制氧机,全屋地暖非常给力,升温迅速,秋冬来此应该是不惧严寒的。
迷你吧用的茶里茶包,配的玻璃瓶装冰川水,需要滚沸后引用,此外有速溶咖啡和挂耳,欢迎礼有各种坚果等。
酒店客房最高三层,自然是越高景观越好,不过4楼也有露台,5层还有个瞭望台,老板还可以带去后山上居高望远,观景是没啥问题,不过有无人机的话就更方便了。
卫生间热水充足,洗澡不成问题,也有智能马桶盖,配置舒适度还是相当高的。
缺点有两个,一是早餐太过简单,二是房间里没装空调,导致白天玻璃房受热严重,屋内无法降温,这要是夏天估计遭不住。
![IMG_20240526_234427_edit_128531629040281.jpg IMG_20240526_234427_edit_128531629040281.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/165447zvqxb3z1fofxb72b.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240526_234453_edit_128556618888714.jpg IMG_20240526_234453_edit_128556618888714.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/165448xtobk7vtdxiiioxi.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240526_234502_edit_128565398971005.jpg IMG_20240526_234502_edit_128565398971005.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/165448xqyzyamh5a5c56c5.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240527_005034_edit_128626091219433.jpg IMG_20240527_005034_edit_128626091219433.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/165618w1xxwa9eaiiidwf7.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240526_234433_edit_128539412747571.jpg IMG_20240526_234433_edit_128539412747571.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/165447zrrxxsgs7mdmxs9w.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240526_234538_edit_128588882142355.jpg IMG_20240526_234538_edit_128588882142355.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/165448n04fogmzex0v0eo0.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240526_234551_edit_128596988831937.jpg IMG_20240526_234551_edit_128596988831937.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/165448hgpp6gdgmqalmnh4.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240526_234443_edit_128548035653820.jpg IMG_20240526_234443_edit_128548035653820.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/165448h8ppl8yxqqfro998.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240527_120528_edit_131862712833522.jpg IMG_20240527_120528_edit_131862712833522.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/165448lzdhpie3202h8592.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240526_234519_edit_128579752438190.jpg IMG_20240526_234519_edit_128579752438190.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/165448alwj0rkli2hltgrm.jpg!m)
早餐确实略简单,不过这也是新疆酒店的通病了。无论是什么野奢,大几千一晚的酒店,早餐也别想有啥吃的,这一点国宾馆序列和国际连锁品牌酒店会好很多。
![IMG_20240527_100155_edit_128738485073062.jpg IMG_20240527_100155_edit_128738485073062.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/173715fzumdi3h3evd1cde.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240527_094828_edit_128713845496503.jpg IMG_20240527_094828_edit_128713845496503.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/165619rfjmm21xaiyrrhhu.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240527_094824_edit_128705309428275.jpg IMG_20240527_094824_edit_128705309428275.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/165619c2g12mfyjr4ybuyu.jpg!m)
能看着慕士塔格峰吃饭的餐厅你能受得了吗?关键是还便宜好吃!
用了4天时间走了喀什塔县帕米尔小环线,最不后悔的就是去了木吉火山口,火山口真的没啥,但路上的湿地、十八罗汉峰和白沙湖北岸真是美爆了。
回程已晚,所以选择在途中吃饭,正巧看到这家某评有套餐,4个菜只要100块!?塔县的物价你们都懂得,这么便宜的可遇不可求,就决定在这里吃了。
这边的景观确实绝赞,被包括冰山之父慕士塔格的诸多雪山环绕,店内也宽敞明亮。
![IMG_20240526_222053_edit_37452540555222.jpg IMG_20240526_222053_edit_37452540555222.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/170146aqjxyvlyv75qlljk.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240526_212839_edit_37297241694829.jpg IMG_20240526_212839_edit_37297241694829.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/170147bglzjeqi688oze6f.jpg!m)
本来肯花一整天玩木吉边防公路的人就很少,这边更是游客寥寥,就我一桌客人,老板不在,店内小哥团购验券不会弄,不过最后一商量,还是按照团购的价格付款给他们,我又加了一个菜,完美。团购对比菜单便宜不少,确实很厚道。
![IMG_20240526_213013_edit_37326416315657.jpg IMG_20240526_213013_edit_37326416315657.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/170145cmcz4mzirw10lgle.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240526_213008_edit_37316207502117.jpg IMG_20240526_213008_edit_37316207502117.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/170146hn8kn4920nvkvk49.jpg!m)
讲真对于这种极为偏僻的高海拔边境地区的餐厅,我本来没抱任何希望,能吃就行,没想到出品味道却超越了很多大城市的同类馆子。
1⃣、西辣蛋35元/份 推荐指数:4.5🌟![IMG_20240526_214923_edit_37337283689614.jpg IMG_20240526_214923_edit_37337283689614.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/170146w01vjt7z7yute6gu.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240526_214927_edit_37345823684925.jpg IMG_20240526_214927_edit_37345823684925.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/170146ri1i2c9tdl132lmy.jpg!m)
套餐之外另加的菜,按原价算。新疆菜的经典家常款,拌面下饭营养均衡都是一绝,我发现新疆的各种炒鸡蛋都很好吃!微焦的油香中带着蓬松的空气感,加上了优质的番茄就更加浓郁了,吸饱了汤汁,简单的用盐调味,咸鲜微辣,真的太美了!写到这里我都流口水。
2⃣、**鸡蛋35元/份 推荐指数:4🌟![IMG_20240526_215414_edit_37355514577111.jpg IMG_20240526_215414_edit_37355514577111.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/170146w6dxp4p7awgaudup.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240526_215417_edit_37363993372423.jpg IMG_20240526_215417_edit_37363993372423.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/170147y2e6gu68vjetgg6v.jpg!m)
天知道我是多爱吃炒鸡蛋?在甘肃基本每天都沙葱炒蛋吃不腻,新疆没有沙葱,这**炒蛋也不错,鸡蛋一如既往优秀,而**居然也很鲜嫩,一点也不塞牙,我建议各位来新疆多吃番茄和各种高纤维蔬菜,可保持💩和心情舒畅,我在新疆两个月,从未上火或便秘。
3⃣、土豆丝45元/份 推荐指数:3🌟![IMG_20240526_215825_edit_37371668878151.jpg IMG_20240526_215825_edit_37371668878151.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/170146k32e6c2683q88w20.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240526_220029_edit_37379254273462.jpg IMG_20240526_220029_edit_37379254273462.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/170147ay44bbeezstey808.jpg!m)
套餐包含的不算贵,但菜单定价就挺迷居然要45,所以原价不建议点,另外,新疆这边做土豆丝基本是擦出来的,和刀切的口感区别还是有差距的,建议不是特别爱吃就少点。
4⃣、葱爆肉48元/份 推荐指数:4.5🌟![IMG_20240526_220325_edit_37413074608353.jpg IMG_20240526_220325_edit_37413074608353.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/170146dwqee5injj2i13vj.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240526_220327_edit_37420723473976.jpg IMG_20240526_220327_edit_37420723473976.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/170146ybblpya2w5rewzcl.jpg!m)
做法简单粗暴,但很见功底,肉片用的是过油肉的做法,在过油肉里也是难得少见的鲜嫩口感。大葱斜切,配以青红辣椒,卖相清爽,又最大限度保留了葱和肉的原味,葱香还是很浓郁的。我自己做的话,大概率也会这么做。
5⃣、辣子肉38元/份 推荐指数:4🌟![IMG_20240526_220913_edit_37429420117725.jpg IMG_20240526_220913_edit_37429420117725.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/170147ckzpyfptrtpkpftf.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240526_220917_edit_37437049801057.jpg IMG_20240526_220917_edit_37437049801057.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/18/170147x5oo4o8n5s442o4v.jpg!m)
你看,这道菜的调味和火候肉眼可见要比葱爆肉重很多,没生意的店这厨子也是一点也不敷衍,而且菜单价比土豆丝还便宜。
我觉得这家店最难得的,就是能做到各菜有各味,在新疆馆子里尤其少见。我强烈建议去木吉,记得顺便来照顾下这家的生意。