之前在飞客首页偶然刷见一处称为“最后的江南秘境”的丽水山乡,于是报名体验,承蒙厚爱,最终获得了本次机会。无奈疫情反复,从9月一直拖至11月,才顺利完成出行体验。时值冬雨初降,正是入山沐风、枕月听雨的好时候,且恰逢项目间隙有假期,遂提包驾车,携三五好友一同前往此行的目的地——松阳县原舍揽树山房理想村。
自杭州到松阳300公里,近四小时车程。途中淫雨霏霏,当窗外的视野从都市的钢铁丛林切换到乡间的碧翠环抱,沿途的一切开始变得新鲜。
“八山一水一分田,青山且重重”,汽车也不知何时开始往山巅处进发,山口潜行,环山而上,待到呈阶梯式排布的壮阔山房拨开层层山霭映入眼帘,山开旷望,林谷幽远,眼前层层叠叠的建筑如同依山而生,与山势的肌理圆满结合。
只需要第一眼,属于山野乡居的独特韵味便直击心底,随云海在心间不断翻涌。
所谓“拨云见日,雾满拦山”,大抵如此。
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一杯当地的端午茶入口,驱散直上山巅的湿冷;一幢夯土的云间悠居,开启向乡野扎根的旅程。
一厅双卧双卫,客房整体的原木风是入眼可及的柔软;尚朋堂电磁炉、西门子抽油烟机、方太嵌入式蒸箱,齐备的厨卫用具,为闯入他乡的旅客带来回家的温暖;木马、玩偶、整墙的洞洞板,充分考虑亲子客的带娃需求。
推开卧室的阳台门,放眼眺望,迷蒙的山霭从山谷深处不断翻涌而出,随风靠近、再远去。山林入画,云海为居,坐看院中苍苔,轻雨洒落无声,偶然几声雀鸣,流水与山涛交响,“我心素已闲,清川澹如此”,如是而已。
一个温馨、童趣的家外之家,一个闲卧云海的静心之所,尘心涤尽,自在无声,仿佛生于林间而隐于云中,尽享自然疗愈。
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山景清远、物产丰饶,是榔树村的标签。扎根在同一片山脉的揽树山房,也沿着古村的血脉,为山房所在的深谷中点燃一派山间烟火。
早餐时分,零星几位客人不紧不慢步入餐厅。自助式的餐点除必备的西点、面包之外,也融入了诸多颇具乡土气息的菜品,当地特色的粿子也着实惊艳,缺少现煮的面档虽存在不足,但闲坐云巅的落地窗前,浅尝一杯香甜的端午茶,属于清晨的元气注满身心,一箪食、一豆羹,纷扰的尘心归于平静。
正餐选择了餐厅的小火锅,麻辣牛油、冬阴功、清汤菌菇,三种特色的锅底各显神通,配菜中清新的尖笋让人印象深刻,蒸腾的热气像极了山间的云雾。
浓香四溢的食物既满足了口腹之欲,也丰满了乡村生活的生态系统,使得来此涤荡心灵的旅人们,能如倦鸟栖巢般,全然放心地将身心灵归属于这片天地。
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除却客房、餐厅,揽树山房还拥有丰富的休闲康体设施,足以满足自然疗愈、亲子度假等多重需求。
此处有云朵乐园,天真烂漫的孩童可在此蹦跳雀跃,在拥抱大自然的同时,感受最纯粹的玩乐时光;此处有萱草书屋,或许可以听一首舒缓的曲调,捧读一本有关诗和远方的书籍,完成思考的沉淀与哲学的升华;此处有雾SPA,当结束了一天的游览徒步,不妨体验一番云端SPA,给予身心充分的休眠与重启。此处有多功能活动室,可以承接丰富的团建活动,举办小型会议及沙龙。
此处更有无边际恒温泳池,与行政酒廊相连,可至此享受一个充实的午后。尤其在这天凉欲雨的晚秋,目之所及是无边际的崖景和云海缭绕的群山,身之所处是汤泉般的恒温泳池,在其中畅游一番,便能切实体验“身心灵与自然的完美交融”,这是一种怎样的惬意,人间仙境不外如是。
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同一处秘境,同一片青山,属于四都乡百姓的生活也依旧火热。
榔树村、陈家铺、杨家堂……先锋书店、飞茑集、云夕共享空间……
一个个传统聚落传承至今,为这座远遁尘世的山脉赋予浓厚的烟火气;一个个自外界而来的鲜活业态,为这片古老厚重的土地注入新鲜血液。
山中有云,云间有村,村里鸡犬相闻,熙熙攘攘,乡村的底色映射在当地居民的生活之中,为此间山乡带来新时代的活力。
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居于云端的揽树山房,不是简单的沿着山脉开几家民宿,而是以新时代的乡村生态群为目标,向着更丰富的业态延伸。
等到一个个寻迹而来的游人来到此地,入眼所见,是一个遗世独立的洞天福地,是一处鲜活完整的山乡村落。看得见的山间烟火,摸得着的文化脉络,留得住的原乡气息,唯有这样的天地,才能让游人们愿意将心留下,更透彻地感受这片土地的独特基因。
秋已渐深,不妨来此,领略这“最后的江南秘境”。
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