继续我们为期60天的新疆大环线之旅。
第20天,总结下来可以说是库车一日游。楼主是5月31日晚上到的库车,住希尔顿惠庭酒店,而今年独库公路是6月1日正式通车,但是按照历年情况,首日必堵,所以我就不去凑热闹,决定在库车多停留一天,2号再上独库。
库车的酒店价格相对比较便宜,独库公路的开通也只导致房价小幅度上涨,300多的价格在可接受范围之内,住过了希尔顿惠庭酒店,库车饭店有些老旧就没有再考虑,所以选择了这家刚开业不久的万华国际酒店,酒店位置不算核心,不过出行还算便利,独立建筑,停车场很大,对自驾游客很友好。
大堂面积不大,双层挑空,中央两根立柱,使用的石材还是蛮厚重的,不过和希尔顿惠庭相比还是略带老干部风,不太像23年开业的酒店。进门左手边前台,右手边有休息区,还算明亮整洁,电梯间配有4部电梯,也够用了,酒店生意很好,当天接近满房,所以没有升级。
![IMG_20240602_103608_edit_23846915757298.jpg IMG_20240602_103608_edit_23846915757298.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/24/155705t8r0q8ooh2j2rhbq.jpg!m)
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5-8月的新疆,堪称越野车博览会,各种车型、各种改装都能看到。后面走独库还遇到了保时捷911。。。不过我更钦佩那些单车骑行独库的,这真是太厉害了。
![IMG_20240602_103614.jpg IMG_20240602_103614.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/24/155706f0tp323paqulptot.jpg!m)
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房间面积体感30平左右,这点还是远不如希尔顿惠庭的,不过住一晚也基本够用,进门左手边洗手间,右手边衣柜和行李架,洗漱台单台盆,放有一盆绿植。
房间整体装修风格比较朴素,靠窗有贵妃榻,小圆桌兼任办公桌,床品还算比较舒适,迷你吧用的散茶,免费水哇哈哈。
淋浴间挺宽敞,淋浴系统体感尚佳,备品小瓶定制,马桶非智能,有手机搁架。
整体来说,酒店是够新,不过无论公区设计和房间配置,都无甚亮眼之处,服务也是中规中矩,如果价格一样的话,我还是会更愿意选择逆子希尔顿惠庭吧。
![IMG_20240601_224138_edit_23519939703702.jpg IMG_20240601_224138_edit_23519939703702.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/24/155904bk30zbk6pcosgs86.jpg!m)
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这家作为库车唯二的五星酒店(另外一家天缘国际),不但客房设施偏快捷水平,早餐也是相当一般,餐厅在酒店二层,面积还是挺大的,有面档,不过清汤寡水的只有西红柿鸡蛋一个浇头,索性不让放汤了,直接做成西红柿鸡蛋拌面还好吃点。
热菜除了薯条和鸡米花全素凉菜好歹有个牛肉拌黄瓜,其他就油炸花生米和一些蜜瓜可吃,从整体来说是不如同城希尔顿惠庭的,新疆绝大部分本土酒店都不重视早餐这块,甚至不如街边小店5块钱的内容,一些“野奢”酒店甚至只提供馒头和稀粥,确实和国际连锁有很大的差距。
![IMG_20240602_095548_edit_23747615740646.jpg IMG_20240602_095548_edit_23747615740646.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/24/160027gy3ydp8q2m238onn.jpg!m)
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如果说去年南疆行给我最大惊喜的是莎车,那么今年南疆之旅最大的意外则是库车,本来作为独库公路的起点,我下意识以为它会和独山子一样新兴且索然无味,但在热斯坦老街及其周边闲逛的一天,却让我迅速的爱上了这座小城,甚至已经计划明年再来深度体验。
热斯坦老街并未充斥外地游客,也许他们都集中去了旁边的库车王府吧,而是95%以上的本地面孔,这一点即使喀什古城、牛羊大巴扎,以及伊宁六星街也无法媲美,这些地方还是太多游客了,仅有莎车老街夜市拥有与之比拟的“原汁原味”。
更有趣的是,我在闲逛时居然接受到了本地小学生的街头采访。
![DSC06921_鍓湰.jpg DSC06921_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/24/174755hnm1ubqv8vvqy3qv.jpg!m)
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而且这边非常热闹,色彩斑斓且美食众多,路边随便一家看着破旧的小店,就可能隐藏着令人惊叹且廉价的美味。
就拿这相邻的两家冰淇淋店来说吧,左侧再帕尔手工冰淇淋,点评4.0分,右侧五味冰淇淋,点评上压根搜不到。我先在五味冰淇淋买了一份3元的,从门口就能亲眼看到老板在用传统的转桶机在做,已经数次来过新疆的我知道,这种冰淇淋才是最物美价廉的,远非古兰丹姆之类网红冰淇淋可比。
然后我出于好奇,又去隔壁再帕尔买了一份8元的开心果冰淇淋,尝尝啥味,拿到五味去吃,果然,除了看上去更精致,但口感粗粝,很多冰渣,也缺乏干果香气。
发展到这里,本来也在我预料之内,没想到更绝的来了,五味的老板看到我在吃再帕尔的冰淇淋,直接给我上了一杯,说免费,让我尝尝他家的无花果冰淇淋,对比之下堪称降维打击,无怪乎老板近乎嚣张的自信!
如果再帕尔有4分,那五味不得满分封顶?
我也建议大家来新疆不要盯着古兰丹姆等一些网红店,吃一顿几十上百,但远不如喀什牛羊大巴扎、莎车夜市和库车热斯坦老街这些两三块就能买到的正宗美味。
路边随便一家烤包子,团结街饭馆,点评上压根没有,烤包子2块钱一个,个大,皮薄,饱满,美味!
关于热斯坦老街这块,我想说的实在是太多了,不仅仅有诸多美食和西域独有的氛围感,不只有王府和库车大寺,周边花帽巷、门巴扎、龟兹小巷也非常值得一逛。
只能说明年一定要多住几天!
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![IMG_20240601_165910_edit_22794383611624.jpg IMG_20240601_165910_edit_22794383611624.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/24/164231u2cxuc13hu25c6h5.jpg!m)
虽说热斯坦老街实在是美食众多,但要说其中最火的店是哪家,则非这家名字古怪拗口的店莫属,店内外坐的满满的,饭点肯定是需要拼桌等位的,基本都是本地人在大快朵颐,门口烤炉烤窖烤包子现包现做,真材实料,新鲜看得见,氛围感十足。
店内还算比较干净整洁,点单沟通也不成问题,做好之后会帮端到桌上,等就是了。
![IMG_20240601_205930_edit_26819857603197.jpg IMG_20240601_205930_edit_26819857603197.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/24/164356lt5k4rqczrg0x7oq.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240601_205908_edit_26794526373513.jpg IMG_20240601_205908_edit_26794526373513.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/24/164355hxd2wp2vap69ujpw.jpg!m)
1⃣、库车大叔高温烤羊肉串8元/串 推荐指数:5🌟
![IMG_20240601_204142_edit_26755890746957.jpg IMG_20240601_204142_edit_26755890746957.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/24/164355kpkxzxrlj2dmmzwl.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240601_204145_edit_26763599043831.jpg IMG_20240601_204145_edit_26763599043831.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/24/164356b48sesn6leek4ley.jpg!m)
快有小臂那么长的烤肉一串居然只卖8块钱,分量十足,饭量小的估计吃个两串就饱,高温带来充足的美拉德反应,入口先是一层薄薄的脆壳,然后热气翻滚,汁水迸发,鲜嫩而肥厚的大块羊肉极具满足感,调味也是恰到好处,综合指数堪称此次2个月新疆大环线的烤肉最佳!
2⃣、油包肝8元/串 推荐指数:4🌟
![IMG_20240601_203905_edit_26730313308940.jpg IMG_20240601_203905_edit_26730313308940.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/24/164356t5v66q7sag53j6zj.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240601_203912_edit_26739139376647.jpg IMG_20240601_203912_edit_26739139376647.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/24/164356vt2mfmqbk2qq2ot8.jpg!m)
油包肝作为新疆烤肉的经典搭配,我吃过不少,但羊肝如此肥嫩的,还是第一次遇到,简直都快吃出鹅肝的感觉了,究其原因,第一我觉得高温快烤+食材新鲜,是保持羊肝水嫩的关键,第二也和油肝比例相关,这家使用了更大块的羊尾油来包裹羊肝,而油封法相关的烹饪,总会使质地干柴的食材更鲜嫩。
不过,有利有弊吧,羊尾油放太多也容易腻,这家油包肝就是第一串惊艳,后面就开始衰减的感觉,一人一串足矣,不建议多点。
3⃣、黄面凉面5元/份 推荐指数:4.5🌟
![IMG_20240601_203125_edit_26647955332390.jpg IMG_20240601_203125_edit_26647955332390.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/24/164354j5u37ypyhyc6tutz.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240601_203130_edit_26664654955825.jpg IMG_20240601_203130_edit_26664654955825.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/24/164355h7dq8xjjp669m6pz.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240601_203127_edit_26656311212076.jpg IMG_20240601_203127_edit_26656311212076.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/24/164355aui6uni78ccduj68.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240601_203326_edit_26680774183947.jpg IMG_20240601_203326_edit_26680774183947.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/24/164355lxxrqamq8r9rxqzo.jpg!m)
我其实是不太爱吃黄面的,因为黄面全靠调味汁,有些铺子瞎胡搞就很冷坑,但他家确实做的不错,调味酸辣清爽不粘腻,尤其是和他家烤肉配起来,冰火两重天的感觉真是绝了,还贼解腻。他家还有黄面和凉粉两掺的做法也是5块,物美价廉。
4⃣、馄饨15元/碗 推荐指数:4🌟
![IMG_20240601_203605_edit_26694872062591.jpg IMG_20240601_203605_edit_26694872062591.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/24/164355loayiiajgueaiyjr.jpg!m)
汤鲜味美好大一碗!比在库尔勒夜市吃的那家好吃多了。
5⃣、缸子肉20元/份 推荐指数:4🌟
![IMG_20240601_203616_edit_26711780941755.jpg IMG_20240601_203616_edit_26711780941755.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/24/164356sfzcg5gjgga1j5jz.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240601_203619_edit_26720926240191.jpg IMG_20240601_203619_edit_26720926240191.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/24/164356x63ckj6ldd0zy9ly.jpg!m)
这家的缸子肉是用大海碗上来的,里面肉块萝卜骨头满满的,份量肯定是很给力的,带肉羊骨头啃着也过瘾,美中不足是默认放了很多香菜和花椒,我认为最好的缸子肉是忠于原味的,只放盐就最好。
6⃣、烤包子2.5元/个 推荐指数:4.5🌟
![IMG_20240601_205917_edit_26806174888095.jpg IMG_20240601_205917_edit_26806174888095.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/24/164356mm97bpx0odckzprt.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240601_205839_edit_26780668232891.jpg IMG_20240601_205839_edit_26780668232891.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202407/24/164352pb86ve5n35vpoh3t.jpg!m)
刚出炉的烤包子确实太美了,肉馅饱满汁水丰盈,可惜只能浅尝实在是吃不下了,他家的烤包子在两个月的新疆之旅中也算是很出色的。
没雷区的店,人均30就能吃饱吃好,难怪门庭若市,放心冲就是了。
希望本文对大家有所帮助,谢谢观赏!
如果觉得不错,还请花花、关注、转发 评论来一套哈,谢谢支持!