继续我们为期60天的新疆大环线之旅。昨天断更了一天,因为楼主终于结束了在家的避暑时光,又开始了新的旅程,我想叫它“逐秋之旅”,有兴趣的可以期待下。
第47天,我们从可可托海涵田酒店出发,途径可可托海镇附近的伊雷木湖、可可苏里湖和富蕴县城边的工业废墟,然后走北大高速和五大高速,到达萨姆吉尔麦田酒店,全程459公里。
前天忘记发禾木到北屯市路上途径的乌伦古湖,补一下。这是一座非常巨大的湖泊,南北宽约30千米,东西长35千米,在当地又名布伦托海或者福海,一眼望不到边宛若真的大海。禾木-北屯路上有沿湖公路,这边有很多露营的旅客。
这里渔业资源丰富,牧草肥美,是著名的冷水鱼产地,占新疆总产量的三分之一,所以在北屯可以去吃吃又名的冷水鱼。
![DJI_20240622211327_0709_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240622211327_0709_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/123244h2kdafk20zcu26k6.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240622212103_0750_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240622212103_0750_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/123243oskmfec19274e94q.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240622211831_0738_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240622211831_0738_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/123243g2jaz1bzb5ji5ja2.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240622211428_0714_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240622211428_0714_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/123241t333mske4uruumls.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240622211626_0725_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240622211626_0725_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/123242cixi0i040nx633zi.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240622211735_0733_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240622211735_0733_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/123245bnod0eo4e065vqlq.jpg!m)
湖的另一侧,小山坡上还有个孤零零的古塔。
![DJI_20240624145432_0904_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240624145432_0904_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/123245t8xvoee31gj1ohgq.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240624145634_0915_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240624145634_0915_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/123246gazrx1nbb4rb1a1r.jpg!m)
在富蕴县城旁边路过一处工业废墟,看着感觉不错于是下来逛了下,这应该是正在进行改造工程,巨大的停车场已经建好,旁边还有造型别致的场馆竣工,看样子是准备建成矿业的主题公园。
![DJI_20240623171639_0785_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240623171639_0785_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/123244hexsss999sstpsdu.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240623171543_0782_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240623171543_0782_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/123246cwe787r7b4dbd7td.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240623171859_0795_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240623171859_0795_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/123245dkjh7q7kch7o5ep2.jpg!m)
伊雷木湖位于可可托海镇西南约4千米的断陷洼地内,是额尔齐斯河和喀依尔特河交汇储水而成的水库型湖泊。这里草甸丰美,波平浪静,和周围的麦田一起形成层次丰富的色彩。
![DJI_20240624115826_0800_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240624115826_0800_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/123245ykc5iq6csvs9i6vz.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240624115831_0801_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240624115831_0801_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/123245gwtbt4h04kmkozwg.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240624120623_0831_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240624120623_0831_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/123246ghmgx3fyjfm0ymyz.jpg!m)
再往南走不远就到了可可苏里湖,目前这里被开发成两个景区,一个是游乐园和花海为主题,旁边紧挨着的是湿地公园,两边是分开售票的。
它是由地震断陷形成的湖泊,湖面面积约1.8平方公里,平均水深2米,湖中有大小浮岛20多个,水生植物丰富。最为奇特的是,水中的芦苇是直接长在水上没有根的,随风漂游,可谓是风一场景一场。
每年夏秋季节,成千上万的野鸭、水鸡、红雁云集在此繁衍生息,野鸭们成双成对觅食戏水,自始自终双双结伴,一旦一只离去,另一只便终生不再“嫁娶”,常常是独自一个在湖的上空徘徊低飞,情景凄惨,令人动容。
![DJI_20240624135752_0846_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240624135752_0846_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/123245voyl1lnaktw40on4.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240624140935_0890_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240624140935_0890_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/123245y0zn3odn8b8byq8n.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240624140558_0872_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240624140558_0872_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/123246s0t8dv72e5t2ti7u.jpg!m)
![DJI_20240624140604_0873_D_鍓湰.jpg DJI_20240624140604_0873_D_鍓湰.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/123245lvsluwvswhjs6v4p.jpg!m)
吉木萨尔也是一座历史悠久,达2000余年的古城,自汉代建立安西都护府起始,在这里屯兵为北庭故城,到了唐长安二年(公元702年),女皇武则天升庭州为北庭都护府,府治北庭城为天山北麓的政治、军事中心和交通枢纽。
唐景云二年(711年),北庭都护府升格为北庭大都护府,下设2个都护府,23个都督府,辖伊州、西州、庭州三州,成为唐朝在西域的最高军事指挥机关,管理天山以北东起蒲类海,西至咸海广大地区的军事政务,受其节制的军队有十万余众。
所以,当今这里的公务接待酒店,还叫“北庭迎宾馆”,似在缅怀昔日荣光。
不过楼主这次赶得不巧,迎宾馆满房,所以就选了这家同为4星级别,与迎宾馆一路之隔的麦田酒店。预定商务标间一晚276元,还是蛮划算的。
酒店是一栋独立建筑,楼下超大停车场对自驾客人很友好,门口就能看到对面的北庭迎宾馆。门口的树还被修剪成大象的形状,很可爱。
![IMG_20240624_225818_edit_25372664990398.jpg IMG_20240624_225818_edit_25372664990398.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115751rmlm8bc087o72vlo.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_225730_edit_25355460938838.jpg IMG_20240624_225730_edit_25355460938838.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115751kbzk2kdgmkdznmqz.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_225749_edit_25363634737795.jpg IMG_20240624_225749_edit_25363634737795.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115752mjfjl4l4ji2j43c3.jpg!m)
大堂双层挑空,背景墙是用巨幅毛毯做成的亚洲地图,右手边是前台,左手边有个超市可以进行物资补给。
![IMG_20240624_225338_edit_25309853366970.jpg IMG_20240624_225338_edit_25309853366970.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115751wooohihs0lk0lgwh.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_225411_edit_25326506025301.jpg IMG_20240624_225411_edit_25326506025301.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115752dqxorqmf7wxvno8w.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_225348_edit_25317788270615.jpg IMG_20240624_225348_edit_25317788270615.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115751ze3roaeuxrcxry0b.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_225429_edit_25337716864362.jpg IMG_20240624_225429_edit_25337716864362.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115751parmamarr5m1h7n0.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_225636_edit_25345541388319.jpg IMG_20240624_225636_edit_25345541388319.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115751c3mvw3uwqsrqyocy.jpg!m)
一层电梯间还是做的相当漂亮的,融入很多中式古风元素和西域风情。
![IMG_20240624_225253_edit_25279871531037.jpg IMG_20240624_225253_edit_25279871531037.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115901pppb35qjdufyoxtf.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_225309_edit_25288390591452.jpg IMG_20240624_225309_edit_25288390591452.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115901wttcpbllavz388yv.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_225136_edit_25210204157610.jpg IMG_20240624_225136_edit_25210204157610.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115859j62tgf7551zovoqv.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_225217_edit_25235887720106.jpg IMG_20240624_225217_edit_25235887720106.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115902r2qs239fmcfmg999.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_225231_edit_25251150468021.jpg IMG_20240624_225231_edit_25251150468021.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115902uuqzrn8xhk3g3j3j.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_225209_edit_25228075575316.jpg IMG_20240624_225209_edit_25228075575316.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115902lg5kmf1lg8du1rud.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_225225_edit_25243549532084.jpg IMG_20240624_225225_edit_25243549532084.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115901jxxm66egze6bmelp.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_225158_edit_25219480393546.jpg IMG_20240624_225158_edit_25219480393546.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115901haal5hjx8a78sca5.jpg!m)
电梯内部,酒店业主是创兴集团,主营农副产品,这也就说明了为啥酒店会叫“麦田”,这边已经到了奇台县境内,这里的七彩麦田景观尤其是和高山草原无缝衔接的麦田景观是国内一绝,可以说不是草原,胜似草原,附近的江布拉克景区虽说不在伊犁,但景观不输伊犁,我觉得在新疆所有草原中也能排进前五,堪称人少景美,所以后面直接在里面多住了几天。
![IMG_20240624_225954_edit_25390867566437.jpg IMG_20240624_225954_edit_25390867566437.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115901qllatslk1cfo1zly.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_225925_edit_25382621318001.jpg IMG_20240624_225925_edit_25382621318001.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115859m39hsbi7hmqbifff.jpg!m)
客房电梯间也挺宽敞。
![IMG_20240624_225037_edit_25202244684174.jpg IMG_20240624_225037_edit_25202244684174.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115953yi6n11emanvmwnzb.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_230048_edit_25398805470602.jpg IMG_20240624_230048_edit_25398805470602.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115900zzbg2gb4piq4qcvv.jpg!m)
房间不清楚有没有升级,反正除了62平的家庭房和55平的套房之外,都是35平,体感来说还是和标称一致的。
![IMG_20240624_224645_edit_25150552697724.jpg IMG_20240624_224645_edit_25150552697724.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115954zoefkob2foqfxzfx.jpg!m)
进门左手边衣柜和迷你吧,右手边洗手间,迷你吧免费水是今麦郎的喝开水,用了散茶而不是茶包,所以没喝。
![IMG_20240624_224706_edit_25158764976368.jpg IMG_20240624_224706_edit_25158764976368.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115954bhsq5hi26qzl6zdf.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_224555_edit_25141615741996.jpg IMG_20240624_224555_edit_25141615741996.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115953f5guz6rnpyun8u5y.jpg!m)
卧室比较宽敞,有标准办公桌,靠窗沙发。2张1.3米的床,长搁板式电视柜,整体风格比较素雅,全屋地毯铺设,因为是23年新开的酒店,所以设施看着很新也已经没啥异味,卫生方面也是做的不错的。
![IMG_20240624_224732_edit_25167043093554.jpg IMG_20240624_224732_edit_25167043093554.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115954b53ywyyxw2jqh2zh.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_224741_edit_25175745443032.jpg IMG_20240624_224741_edit_25175745443032.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115954j3aff3ik013n3zun.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_224759_edit_25184883162302.jpg IMG_20240624_224759_edit_25184883162302.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115954b7j1q55n5qhyachn.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_224809_edit_25193030719592.jpg IMG_20240624_224809_edit_25193030719592.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/115954r2rfglsw2q2c8fwl.jpg!m)
卫生间单台盆,普通马桶,有手机搁架。
![IMG_20240624_224520_edit_25118347987312.jpg IMG_20240624_224520_edit_25118347987312.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/120505qzne1xxzmy11pqnz.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_224525_edit_25125504934186.jpg IMG_20240624_224525_edit_25125504934186.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/120505lt7kb6dxe65be4x7.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_224536_edit_25133076459185.jpg IMG_20240624_224536_edit_25133076459185.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/120505v6ezz06ygf1hgb5a.jpg!m)
整体来说,萨木吉尔的住宿比较便宜,酒店也基本都很新,确实是北疆环线中一个不错的中转点,距离江布拉克景区也只有60多公里。
酒店早餐厅看起来装修更高档一些,差不多是五星级别的水准了,因为业主是搞农副业产品的,所以这边早餐水品也不差,热菜凉菜都有模有样,味道不错,尤其是手工包子好评。
![IMG_20240625_101100_edit_25480309984652.jpg IMG_20240625_101100_edit_25480309984652.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/120734smssksmsllvnql3x.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240625_101050_edit_25469710300800.jpg IMG_20240625_101050_edit_25469710300800.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/120734disji3acpb0hs4a4.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240625_095627_edit_25459741899760.jpg IMG_20240625_095627_edit_25459741899760.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/120734vmmcn5cmclslclmm.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240625_094538_edit_25407167546643.jpg IMG_20240625_094538_edit_25407167546643.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/120734m3bhjbfgmgeuw30h.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240625_094548_edit_25425285418515.jpg IMG_20240625_094548_edit_25425285418515.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/120734ovafza40q3d20whf.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240625_094553_edit_25436999333096.jpg IMG_20240625_094553_edit_25436999333096.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/120734a3l2am588aoe4dla.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240625_094544_edit_25414973116954.jpg IMG_20240625_094544_edit_25414973116954.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/120734x93sp42s94akp7dk.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240625_094609_edit_25448493257574.jpg IMG_20240625_094609_edit_25448493257574.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/15/120733u17jc1r11g1e1wmd.jpg!m)
当天的晚餐选了这家距离酒店1.7公里的丝路北庭宴,某评高达4.9分,确实吃下来很满意,性价比高,味道也是可圈可点。
餐厅位于县中心的一个购物街区二层,比较好停车,晚上还有夜市,看上去相当热闹,美食众多,店面比较大,内部装修也不错,点菜无障碍,上菜也很快。
![IMG_20240624_221956_edit_83113943546691.jpg IMG_20240624_221956_edit_83113943546691.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/16/171501fi0haw00cxihwxi0.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_222007_edit_83122456723774.jpg IMG_20240624_222007_edit_83122456723774.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/16/171456mia3k4kaj4mei7v4.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_221940_edit_83105066069089.jpg IMG_20240624_221940_edit_83105066069089.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/16/171502xbhd1hazhf9flhj9.jpg!m)
本来点了个102元的套餐,里面包含三个菜,然后又加了一道,总共消费154元,下面点评下菜品吧:
![IMG_20240624_213027_edit_82946408345675.jpg IMG_20240624_213027_edit_82946408345675.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/16/171458h06jbyq1jff6afeq.jpg!m)
1️⃣、北庭宴特色椒麻鸡原价:59元/份 推荐指数:5⭐
即使在我吃过的所有椒麻鸡里,也几乎是最优秀的存在了,首先份量很大,选材很好,鸡香十足,火候把控非常到位,皮脆弹,肉有嚼劲又不至于塞牙。
最好的还是调味达到了相当高的水准,虽说这道起源于新疆的菜品叫“椒麻鸡”,但并非就是一味的“麻”就是做的好了,恰恰相反,过度的麻只会麻痹味觉,被麻痹之后鸡肉的原香,鸡皮的触感都会大打折扣,这恰恰是很多椒麻鸡店会犯的错误。
麻一定要适度,是用来跳动味蕾,增进食欲的,而不是彻底麻痹舌头和口腔,味同嚼蜡。这家就做的相当好,麻、辣、咸、鲜都很适度,同时吃起来清爽不油腻。
![IMG_20240624_213714_edit_83000191946709.jpg IMG_20240624_213714_edit_83000191946709.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/16/171457muaru5z99w0rau59.jpg!m)
2️⃣、蔬菜豆腐炖丸子原价:48元/份 推荐指数:4.5⭐
厚实的砂锅端上来,热辣滚烫,丸子的肉感很足,没冰箱味,很鲜美,而老豆腐炖够了火候,吸饱了汤汁,浓郁醇厚,非常下饭。
![IMG_20240624_213848_edit_83025162233163.jpg IMG_20240624_213848_edit_83025162233163.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/16/171503pphs6dbpepszotee.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_213916_edit_83044571536806.jpg IMG_20240624_213916_edit_83044571536806.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/16/171500ovfvfffs2siff10o.jpg!m)
3️⃣、虎皮辣子烧茄子原价:29元 推荐指数:4⭐
标准的大酒楼做法,可以看出厨师是科班出身,基本功还是很扎实的,明油亮芡,看看辣椒表面的纹路就知道时间和火候把控的非常精准,茄子和辣椒也是分别烹饪的,显得细致认真,美中不足就是两者的融合度还是略有欠缺。
![IMG_20240624_214358_edit_83078539025864.jpg IMG_20240624_214358_edit_83078539025864.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/16/171501bxmi787fadl70zje.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_214404_edit_83086538999300.jpg IMG_20240624_214404_edit_83086538999300.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/16/171458apobh5d8pb0ajtnp.jpg!m)
4️⃣、浓汤香辣鹿茸菌42元/份 推荐指数:5⭐
之前已经说过很多次了,风靡很多景区又卖的特别贵的“野蘑菇拌面”之类,多半用的就是这种鹿茸菌,虽然非野生,但菌香足,口感爽脆,也不失是优秀的食用菌,当然拿来当野蘑菇卖高价肯定是不对的,但这么一大盘只要42元,就很值了。
菜名说是香辣,其实辣度不高,典型的葱姜蒜烩炒,突出了菌类的自然原香,很是下饭。
![IMG_20240624_213922_edit_83052813379513.jpg IMG_20240624_213922_edit_83052813379513.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/16/171502f65dhtp5ype6hy65.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_213927_edit_83061314445658.jpg IMG_20240624_213927_edit_83061314445658.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/16/171503mt4zfq15ekqr07ge.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_213931_edit_83069593927948.jpg IMG_20240624_213931_edit_83069593927948.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/16/171503vppk6pz1z5z5f5fb.jpg!m)
附部分菜单以供参考,如果你来吉木萨尔,那这家店还是强力推荐的。
![IMG_20240624_212438_edit_82930431736303.jpg IMG_20240624_212438_edit_82930431736303.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/16/171504txvvaecam998am7y.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_212409_edit_82913290599326.jpg IMG_20240624_212409_edit_82913290599326.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/16/171503yb4ubcvzhakdh0en.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_212432_edit_82922639579533.jpg IMG_20240624_212432_edit_82922639579533.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/16/171501dvrx3m19hk5nq33n.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_212443_edit_82938228730572.jpg IMG_20240624_212443_edit_82938228730572.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/16/171501m5b3q25vb2r4zrv4.jpg!m)
![IMG_20240624_212329_edit_82902810919640.jpg IMG_20240624_212329_edit_82902810919640.jpg](https://ptf.flyertrip.com/forum/202408/16/171503xak29hx56rllzlbx.jpg!m)
希望本文对大家有所帮助,谢谢观赏!
如果觉得不错,还请花花、关注、转发 评论来一套哈,谢谢支持!